Dallas pizza doesn't pick a lane — and that's the whole point
Dallas never settled on one kind of pizza, and that turns out to be the best thing about it. In Plano, Heirloom Pizza is a two-stool takeout counter where a self-taught cook named Justin folds a proper New York slice — get The Author, pepperoni and ricotta — and his Detroit Deep Dish Square pushes Wisconsin brick cheese to the edges until it caramelizes. Lewisville has the real Detroit thing at Motor City Pizza, where owner Greg Tierney, a Detroit native, serves The Longacre with seasoned ground beef, mushrooms, ricotta and house BOSS sauce, plus Vernors and Faygo to drink. Downtown belongs to Neapolitan at Partenope Ristorante on Main Street, where the chef was born in Naples — order the Montanara, flash-fried before it hits the wood oven — while Sicilian lives a few blocks away at Pizza Leila near Klyde Warren Park, where the mushroom square is the one regulars name and lunch is two slices and a drink for ten dollars. Roman-style shows up at Pizzeria Carina in Preston Center, where the Carina pie stacks aged mozzarella, shaved pear, caramelized onion, hot honey and pistachios on thin, crisp, naturally leavened dough. New Haven apizza has a home now too: Fortunate Son in downtown Garland does it chewy, blistered and a little charred, and the potato and pancetta pie is the one transplants say tastes like home. And for the late crowd, Zalat Pizza stays open until 4 a.m. on weekends — get the Pho Shizzle, the pho bowl reimagined as a pie — while Campisi's on Mockingbird has been slinging thin-crust red-sauce pies since the 1940s.




Comments